The Original "Kandlefish" TM/R
Kandlefish (K-Fish) Tech Guide
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The design and development of the record-setting Kandlefish is the result of over 50 years of fishing knowledge and experience in the quest for a consistently more-productive fishing lure. The development of the metal jig (a.k.a. "jigging spoon") changed my life forever! As a biologist, and lure designer, many of my fishing years were spent as a licensed guide across North America's fresh and salt water. A few locations include Alaska, Canada, the Great Lakes, Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Northwest. The versatility, and action, of the Kandlefish enables it to literally catch any fresh or salt water fish around the world that feeds on baitfish. Never worry about the availability, and cost, of natural, or synthetic, bait again. There is no other lure type that can out-fish a metal jig in so many different environments! A properly designed, and engineered, full bodied metal jig comes closest to imitating a crippled baitfish. Unlike all other types of fishing lures, the primary strike-triggering actions, of flutter & vibration, are built into the Kandlefish as it falls through the water column. A prime example is "dead-sticking" where the Kandlefish actually has more natural injured baitfish action on the fall, than a real baitfish, without working the rod. Kandlefish are exclusively equipped with tail-attached siwash-style single hooks with their deep throat and wide gap for exceptional landing success after the hook set. Nose-assist hooks, and treble hooks, are not used because they reduce the action, effectiveness and versatility of a metal jig. Our mission, through this tech guide, is to increase your knowledge of the Kandlefish and, most importantly, your success and enjoyment on the water. Important tips will be repeated throughout this guide.
The Kandlefish is a natural reproduction of the candlefish, a member of the smelt family. Its long, slender profile shape is highly prized by game fish around the world in both fresh and salt water. Its lively action, and deadly sonic vibration, imitates the frantic and erratic action of many other species of injured baitfish such as anchovies, herring, needlefish, sand lance, ballyhoo, sardines and shiners. Its wide range of sizes enables the Kandlefish to be effectively fished from the surface down to 300 feet. It is extremely versatile and is the only lure-type that can be cast, jigged, swum or trolled. When cast, or jigged, most strikes will occur on the fall. The K-Fish has a swimming-darting action on the retrieve, or when trolled, and a strike-triggering erratic fluttering, darting, vibrating and gliding action on the fall. Practice with your Kandlefish in calm, clear water to become familiar with its action.
Spinning tackle is most effective when targeting fish in shallow water or when casting to fish feeding near surface in deeper water or when highly- suspended in deeper water. The retrieve can either be continuous or with a lift-drop rod action to give the lure a swim-flutter action.
To maximize the strike-triggering downward flutter of your lure, always lift your rod vertically from about a 9 to 11 o'clock position...never sideways as sideways has no lift. Cast crosscurrent, or with the current, when fishing over a snag-free bottom. The water movement against the Kandlefish creates a livelier & natural action as the lure flutters downward through the flowing water column. This is extremely effective especially in moving saltwater and rivers. A salt water example is casting perpendicular, or parallel, to kelp beds on a taut line along the Pacific Coast, including Alaska & British Columbia. The lure, falling on a tight line vs a slack line, has more action because of the water resistance that is created against the lure...this resultant lure action is deadly!) When drift-casting to rocky structure, cast straight (never cast sideways over snaggy bottom) into the direction of your boat's drift for best line control and telegraphing bottom structure. For deadly results, methodically bottom-bounce the lure through the rocky structure back to the boat. This method results in rarely spooking fish and being able to retrieve your lure, if snagged, as your boat passes over the snag. TIP: Do not fish out of control when casting. Prevent bows in your main line that are mainly caused by side wind. By not keeping a fairly tight line, many strikes will be missed. It is impossible to finesse-jig structure, on a loose line & with monofilament line, that prevents you from feeling the lure working against & through the structure where most fish are located! Solution...Cast downwind (with the wind) and only fish with braided line. When at anchor in the wind, always cast off the stern, as it's facing downwind...NEVER SIDEWAYS. Note...This applies anywhere whether on land or water.
When casting to surface-feeding fish, such as Spanish or king mackerel, mahi-mahi or coho salmon, strikes can be savage and the action non-stop. 1/4, 1/3 & 1/2 oz silver K-Fish are excellent choices in this situation. Conversely, a bottom-bounced K-Fish is most effective when fish are positioned on or near bottom. Except for long distance surfcasting or ultra light outfits, a good all around rod choice is a medium, or med.-heavy, 6 to 6 1/2 footer with a fast-action tip. Spool the reel with 12-17 lb. braided line (lighter line results in longer casts) attached to about 2 ft of clear or fluorocarbon leader. Add a swivel (between the leader and main line), or snap swivel (to the lure), if line twist becomes a problem. "Deadsticking": This term is used for a passive form of casting and can be very effective under the right conditions...a) Moving water; b) A large school of baitfish; c) Diving birds; d) Predator fish actively feeding on those baitfish. This technique is especially effective next to shoreline structure such as kelp & weed beds, islands, walls and rip rap. Water current, and wind, drive concentrations of baitfish against these structures, which in turn attract the predator fish. Once the lure hits bottom in shallower water, try jigging it back to you. Otherwise, speed-retrieve and repeat your cast. Simply cast the smallest (smaller lures suspend longer than larger lures) K-Fish to reach your target, which should be slightly beyond, and upcurrent, to the feeding fish. As soon as your lure hits the water engage your reel and hold your rod tip at 10-11 o'clock, on a tight line, with just an occasional slow lift and drop. This causes the lure to fall slower through the water column with more sonic vibration and a flashing, erratic flutter that gamefish find hard to resist! In most cases, the fish will hook itself because it hit a small, lightweight lure on tight line. 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 ft ultra light spinning outfits are a joy to use on smaller fish under 10 pounds. Spool with 8-10 pound no-stretch braided line for superb casting and hook-sets. (The G. Loomis "SJR 720/6 ft Mag-Light" spinning rod is a superb finesse rod with power.)
This is consistently the most productive of all artificial lure presentations available in sport and commercial fishing. The reason is twofold...a) the fluttering action of the lure as it falls (a basic trigger that causes fish to strike) and b) the lure remains in the strike zone far-longer than that of any other presentation. Please remember this very important analogy. Which is more effective? Casting to fish next to structure (i.e. a dock or bridge) versus vertical jigging while on this same structure? Vertical jigging will always beat casting because the lure constantly remains in the strike zone. In comparison, a cast lure quickly passes through that critical strike zone. Vertical jigging can actually provoke neutral or negative fish into biting. This is the only technique that also permits you to precisely fish in hard-to-reach places such as around dock, pier and bridge pilings, in kelp & weed pockets and timber. Vertical jigging's basic principle is, the more vertical your line, the better the lure action which results in more strikes and better hook-sets. Conversely, the more the line angle the less the lift of the lure. It's the critical LIFT of the lure that positions it for its strike-triggering action on the fall. Spinning tackle generally operates best down to no deeper than 75 ft. and baitcasting tackle is best beyond that. Baitcasters are far-more effective for line control when jigging to suspended fish and for bottom bouncing. (Levelwind reels: Predetermine the amount of line that spools off your reel when the level guide moves from one side to the other. You will now be able to effectively reach suspended fish by using the levelwind as your depth gauge. Also, fishing with metered braided line, with different coloration every 25 feet, is excellent for positioning your lure to suspended fish in deeper water.) Line selection is critical especially in deeper water. For superior hook-sets and sensitivity, with less line drag on a drift, use no-stretch braided line and not monofilament. Mono's diameter is much greater than braid. This creates considerably more drag on the drift and reduces the time the jig can remain fishing near bottom. Rod lifts range between 7 and 10 o'clock. Since vertical jigging can be used for most fish around the world, rod selection is dependent on fish species and water depth. Larger fish, and deeper water, require the use of rods with heavier backbone and heavier jigs. Vary your presentation until the fish respond to the one they prefer.
TIP #1: Since the K-Fish is loaded with built-in action, it is not necessary nor recommended that you jig with hard jerks. This spooks many fish species. Even in extreme depths, forceful jigging is not required especially when using braided line. Thinner line results in truer action and more fishable depth. Remember, the K-Fish is designed for maximum action with little effort and swims very effectively when not jigged while drifting. Fish eagerly strike the swimming action of the Kandlefish.
TIP #2: FOR RETRIEVING, AFTER JIGGING, TO SUSPENDED FISH IN DEEP WATER (50-300 FT): Once your line angles off, and out of the strike zone, speed-retrieve your K-Fish back to the boat. At times, this will trigger a strike as the lure "frantically swims" through a school of suspended fish. This is very effective on many saltwater species including salmon and tuna.
CRITICAL TIP FOR DRIFT-JIGGING TO FISH LOCATED ON BOTTOM WHEN CONDITIONS ARE NOT IDEAL. THESE INCLUDE: FAST DRIFTS, DEEP WATER (50-300 FT) AND COLD WATER (JUST AFTER ICE OUT): This applies to both spinning and baitcasting tackle and is similar to when casting to rocky structure, as described above under casting. The bottom can be rocky or smooth. The critical point here is that you must slow-down the action of the lure to attract neutral/negative fish. This can be achieved by casting your jig directly into the direction that your boat is headed. After the lure reaches bottom, jig it back to the boat while bouncing it against bottom on a tight line. The speed of your retrieve, and rod lifts, will be directly proportional to the drift speed of the boat...the slower the drift, the less hurried your presentation. As long as you can feel bottom, and keep slack line to a minimum, strikes should be frequent. This is especially true, as the line angle becomes vertical as the boat is passing over your jig. (TIP...Do not retrieve the K-Fish once the boat passes over, and beyond, the lure. As long as it remains close to bottom, permit the K-Fish to swim instead of being bottom-bounced. At times, just dragging the lure near bottom, and letting it swim, fish will aggressively attack the K-Fish. Retrieve once any feeling of bottom structure is lost.) The best location on the boat is at the bow or stern. Deadly on freshwater species such as kokanee, lake trout and walleye. Record saltwater catches include cod, striped bass, grouper, snapper, snook, tarpon, Chinook/coho salmon, halibut, lingcod and rockfish.
This is the most subtle form of vertical jigging in which K-Fish can be used as the primary lure or as an attractor. Jig with the smallest lure that effectively reaches your target. When used as a primary lure, replace the single hook with a fine-wire treble hook and tip with bait of your choice (a fine wire treble hook can also be added to the wire eyelet on the nose). When used as an attractor, remove the hook & split ring from the tail portion. Attach a 2 inch long, 4-6 lb. fluorocarbon leader directly to the tail wire then add your bait or lure to the loose end. Snap jigging, and bottom bouncing, the primary lure will attract fish. But, it's the subtle presentation of working the lure with very short lifts, twitches and pauses that result in most strikes. (Slow and deliberate is how the fish respond in their icy environment. So should you with your presentation.) Deadly on many species including perch, walleye, kokanee, rainbow, cutthroat and lake trout. Effective finishes include gold GLD), chartreuse/white pearl (CWP), all glow (BLG), lime/white pearl (LWP) & gold/glow white (GGW).
The K-Fish can effectively be fished off downriggers, divers, planner boards and when flat-lining. It is very effective when trolled behind a downrigger, by itself or behind a flasher or dodger. Trolling a Kandlefish behind a flasher or dodger may reduce its strike-triggering darting action. (Tip: Test the action by running your set-up, in full view, alongside your moving boat). I use divers with great success because they take the K-Fish down to an estimated depth without reducing the darting action. My personal favorite divers are a 000 "Deep Six" and a 040 "Jet Diver". These two sizes will take my K-Fish down to a maximum of 40 feet. Trolling with metered Suffix braided line simplifies this technique because of its different colors every 25 feet. Generally, if you need your diver to descend to the 40 ft depth, twice that amount of line (80 ft) must be released from your reel. Larger divers are used for greater depths. Whatever method is used, it is important to attach a quality ball bearing swivel, between the mainline and leader, to prevent line twist. Unlike conventional spoons and other trolling lures, the K-Fish's basic strike-triggering action is in its lively darting from side-to-side, imitating a baitfish attempting to elude a trailing predator fish. Basically, the more often your lure "hesitates" and flutters downward, the more the likelihood of a strike. Whether slow or speed-trolling, vary your speed and do not run in a straight line. As with jigging, the downward flutter is critical when applied to slower trolling speeds. To significantly increase your strikes, slow-pump your rod while on a slow troll to permit the jig to periodically hesitate then flutter downward. Since it is difficult to fish with a hand-held rod when speed trolling, run a zigzag course to change the jig's action. This is very effective for marine species such as barracuda, mackerel and wahoo. Your top speed is dependent upon the lure not skipping on the surface unless when speed-trolling a 3 1/2 or 4 1/2 oz
K-Fish for albacore tuna. Look for diving gulls and other surface activity to eliminate trolling blindly. Also, locate wrecks that are holding fish near the surface. For explosive excitement, it is hard to beat the savage strike of a 25-40 pound barracuda as it engulfs a speed-trolled K-Fish. Barracuda, in large schools, become very competitive, as do most other species. Days of 50-100 hook-ups are not uncommon in this situation. Most strikes will occur on the K-Fish that is on the inside turn. The inside lure hesitates and flutters downward while the outside lure speeds up without any hesitation. The 1,
1 1/2 & 2 oz K-Fish are excellent speed-trolling sizes. Always use colored wire leader to avoid cut-offs from sharp-toothed predator fish. TIPS: Speed...SLOW (up to 2 mph) good for kokanee, chinook & coho salmon (for kokanee, troll with the 1/6 or 1/4 oz sizes in the fluorescent chartreuse/white pearl finish (CWP)... deadly off a downrigger. MODERATE (3-6 MPH) good for barracuda and mackerel. FAST (7-10 mph) good for albacore and wahoo. Trolling sizes...SLOW...For other than kokanee, 1/3, 1/2 & 3/4 ozs. MODERATE...1, 1 1/2 & 2 ozs. FAST...2 1/2 - 4 1/2 ozs. Finishes...The glow-in-the-dark / all glow (BLG), and fluorescent lime back/white glow belly (LWG) finishes are very effective during low light periods and is especially deadly within three hours after sun-up while flat-line trolling for light-sensitive species such as salmon. Sun eventually causes salmon to seek deeper water. At that time, troll deeper and switch to UV white pearl (WP) or UV chartreuse/white pearl (CWP). TIP: At times, the two-sided finishes can be effectively fished all day long because of its unique finish design. A deadly combination of silver on the front side, and a bio-luminescent glow on the back side, should be in every serious angler's tackle arsenal. The silver side works great on bright days and the glow side catches fish on cloudy & rainy days...no need to change lure finishes to accommodate weather changes. ROTATING FLASHERS: Attach a 3/4 or 1 oz Kandlefish 18-24 inches behind your flasher. This is highly effective off a weighted flat line or downrigger. Over two decades of comparison tests have shown that the K-Fish will consistently outfish traditional flies, plastic squid and even natural bait. DODGERS: Rig the same as a flasher. Troll faster for coho salmon and slower, and deeper, for chinook salmon. DOWNRIGGERS (Portions purposely repeated from trolling section): Water clarity and type of fish species determine lure size, leader length and trolling speed. The 1/6 & 1/4 oz sizes are effective for kokanee and trout. The medium range of 1/3 �1 1/2 oz sizes are effective for most other fresh and salt water species. NOTE: Shorten your leader length for more lure action and just reverse for less lure action. DIVERS: Luhr Jensen "Deep Six", and "Jet Diver", work extremely well for lowering the Kandlefish in the water column. These divers are very effective in helping the K-Fish to catch fish without investing in expensive downriggers. Basically, the diver descends to about half of the mainline released from the reel. For example, 100 feet of released braided line permits the diver to take the Kandlefish down to 50 feet. TIP: Attaching a Kandlefish behind a flasher, or dodger, may reduce the lively action of the Kandlefish. Troll-test the Kandlefish within sight of your boat, with and without the flasher, or dodger, to determine if the lure's darting action is reduced. If the lively action of the Kandlefish is reduced by either attractor, do not use it. Instead, attach the Kandlefish directly behind the downrigger, or diver, without an attractor. Its unimpaired lively action will act as its own attractor. IMPORTANT TROLLING TIP TO INCREASE STRIKES: At times, adding a spinner blade to the back of the hook can increase strikes, especially when trolling at faster speeds. This increases its flash and harmonics. Never attach on the point side since that would interfere with hook sets. Attach the blade with a snap to the split ring or directly to the split ring (enlargement of the blade hole may be necessary). Never attach a swivel to the blade since a side-to-side reciprocal blade action is far more productive than a 360-degree spin. Finally, do not extend the end of the blade much beyond the end of the bend in the hook. A willow or Indiana blade, in a nickel-plated finish, is usually the most productive attractor blade shape.
1) Make certain your equipment is in good condition. This starts with your towing vehicle and boat and ends with a properly sharpened hook on your Kandlefish.
2) Visualize how and where you plan to fish.
3) Don't fish blindly. Locate bait or gamefish with your electronic fishfinder. Look for diving birds and fish working near the surface. Refer to #14 under "general information".
4) Avoid poor conditions. These include strong tides and wind, muddy or polluted water, erratic barometric pressure and threatening weather.
1) HOOKS. Treble hooks are not as strong as single hooks, especially when targeting larger fish. When bottom-bouncing, treble hooks catch debris and snag bottom easier. However, a fine wire treble hook is highly recommended when ice jigging since it will penetrate the jaw, more easily, of these typically light biters.
2) BAIT. Under most conditions, it is not necessary to add bait to your Kandlefish. The few exceptions for adding scent are as follows: Unseasonably cold, or hot, fresh or salt water. Fish are cold blooded. As a result, extreme water temperatures drastically affect the comfort zone of fish and they become very lethargic. Adding a piece of nightcrawler for walleyes, or a small piece of shrimp, squid or cutbait for grouper and snapper, almost always will dramatically increase your rate of success. In difficult conditions, the sense of sight (to the flash of the K-Fish), and the sense of sound (to the vibration of the K-Fish), need to be combined with the sense of smell. All of the essential strike-triggering qualities are engineered into the Kandlefish except scent. NOTE: Alaskan, and Pacific Northwest fisheries, are not affected by pronounced variations in water temperature as compared to the Gulf of Mexico or the Great Lakes. As a result, adding bait is not necessary in Pacific waters. However, in the Gulf of Mexico, water temperatures fluctuate almost 35 degrees (57-92 degrees). Adding small pieces of bait to your Kandlefish, when the water temperature drops below 70 degrees, is sometimes necessary when jigging for grouper and snapper. Note...Adding bait will reduce the lure's action. TEST: If strikes are few, add bait.
3) DIRTY OR MUDDY WATER...These conditions should actually be avoided.
4) ERRATIC BAROMETER...The very beginning of a falling barometer is best. A very low, or high, reading results in poor fishing. TIP: Stay home on very low readings. Vertical jig the deepest holes you can find when the barometer is high.
5) POOR TIDES...either too strong or no water movement at all. Moderate tides are best, especially if it's incoming. This is especially important when vertical jigging while anchored or drifting. Line angle is very important. The more vertical your line results in better line control, better jig action, better hook sets and better catches.
6) STRIKES...can range between a light bump to a savage hit! Immediately set the hook if in doubt. At times, slack will be created in your line as the hooked fish swims rapidly toward you. In this case, quickly reel in all of your slack before setting the hook.
7) LINE CONTROL...It is important to minimize any bow (slack) in your line, especially if monofilament mainline is used. No stretch, braided line is highly recommended to detect strikes and for better hook-sets. To eliminate a bow in your line cast directly up, or down, wind.
51人人影视全文免费阅读 51人人影视 E道阅读网 51人人影视全文免费阅读 51人人影视 E道阅读网 ,喷水瑶视频 全文免费阅读 第87话 E道阅读网 喷水瑶视频 全文免费阅读 第87话 E道阅读网 ,神马影院第九达达兔 全文免费阅读 E道阅读网 神马影院第九达达兔 全文免费阅读 E道阅读网 Never cast sideways to the wind since it is almost impossible to feel a strike and set the hook with the uncontrolled line that wind creates. Remember to combine line control with a sharp hook. This is particularly important as your lure is erratically fluttering downward and fish are attempting to strike it.
� NOTE: Except for trolling, braided line technology has made fishing with monofilament mainline obsolete. The advantages of braided line far-outnumber that of monofilament when casting and jigging!
8) LURE SIZE...Generally, use the smallest size that effectively reaches the fish. This is especially important when the fish are not active. Downsize your lure when the bite goes dead.
9) SNAPS AND SWIVELS...Attaching a snap swivel to the Kandlefish is not recommended unless when trolling. If line twist is a problem, attach a wide bend snap (for maximum action), or a loop knot, to the lure end of the leader. Then, attach a quality swivel to the other end that connects the leader to the mainline. When casting, or jigging, a snap or loop knot prevents killing the lure's action. This is caused by overloading a lure with shock leader that does not match the size of that lure. Tying directly to your lure is no problem as long as you match light line to light lures.
10) LEADER...In clear water, fluorocarbon leader is best with clear monofilament a distant second choice. Use longer, and thinner, leader in clearer water. If cut-offs are a problem, from sharp teeth, use single or multi-strand dark colored wire and swivels.
1151人人影视全文免费阅读 51人人影视 E道阅读网 51人人影视全文免费阅读 51人人影视 E道阅读网 ,喷水瑶视频 全文免费阅读 第87话 E道阅读网 喷水瑶视频 全文免费阅读 第87话 E道阅读网 ,神马影院第九达达兔 全文免费阅读 E道阅读网 神马影院第九达达兔 全文免费阅读 E道阅读网 ) MAINLINE...I'm being repetitious here because it's so important, especially for deeper water jigging. The only choice, for serious anglers, is no-stretch braided line. It's great for strength and hook sets, casts further, telegraphs strikes & structure better, has minimal twist when compared to mono and is about half the diameter of monofilament line for less drag. Drag is the main culprit for your lure angling off prematurely while stationary (on land or boat) or drifting.
12) RODS...A great majority of fishing can easily be accomplished with rod lengths of 5 � � 6 � feet, especially when jigging. Beyond that length, sensitivity & control is reduced...directly proportional to the increased rod length. Whether fishing with spinning or casting rods, good backbone is important for good hook-sets. A basic guide is to select a rod that bends no more than half way down from its rod tip. This can be determined by holding a rod by its tip section with the rod parallel to the ground. The rod should be light-weight but strong and sensitive with a fast action tip. A 6 or 6 � foot rod can handle many of the versatile techniques of the K-Fish. Different power ratings range from mag-light to medium, med-heavy and heavy. Avoid rods that bend all the way to the handle or are so heavy that they do not bend at all. G. Loomis is the premier name in rod construction. If you decide against a G. Loomis rod, at least feel one at a local retail store to give you an idea of its quality in helping you to choose a different brand.
13) "MATCH THE HATCH"...Especially when the fishing is slow, it's very important to match the color and size of your lure to that of the baitfish in that particular location.
14) FISH ATTRACTING STRUCTURES & OPPORTUNITIES (IN BOTH FRESH & SALT WATER)... Look for rock piles, reefs, submerged islands, pinnacles, ledges, wrecks and springs. Salt water targets also include kelp & weed edges/pockets, floating debris & weed lines (Alaskan coho salmon & Florida dolphin [mahi-mahi] love this type of floating structure), river channel edges, river mouths, tide or current breaks, clean water next to dirty water, docks & bridge abutments next to deep water, flood-lit areas, deep water points, warm water discharges in winter, standing timber and channel markers. If you can combine several of these features, in one specific location, your success rate will be proportionately increased. TIP: YOUR CATCH RATE WILL DRAMATICALLY INCREASE BY VERTICAL JIGGING ON A BRIDGE OR DOCK VS CASTING TO IT! REASON...MOST FISH POSITION THEMSELVES UNDERNEATH PROTECTIVE STRUCTURE AND WILL NOT COME OUT OF ITS SHADOW TO CHASE A LURE THAT RAPIDLY FALLS THROUGH ITS STRIKE ZONE. HOWEVER, BY PLACING YOURSELF ON TOP OF THAT SAME STRUCTURE, YOU WILL CONSISTENTLY HOOK MORE FISH. ONLY VERTICAL JIGGING CONSTANTLY MAINTAINS YOUR LURE IN THAT CRITICAL STRIKE ZONE WHICH OFTEN PROVOKES INSTINCTIVE STRIKES!
15) COLORS & FINISHES...Match your lure finish to the existing light and water conditions. Note: The bioluminescent glow is a dynamic long-lasting, high-intensity finish. This industry-leading glow finish is especially deadly in dark water, deep water and dark days. a) Clean water on bright, sunny days: PRIMARILY METALLIC FINISHES...GOLD (GLD), COPPER (COP), SILVER (SLV), GOLD/SILVER (GSV) & SILVER WITH FLUORESCENT BLUE (BS) OR GREEN BACKS (KS). b) Clean water on dark days: ALL GLOW (BLG), WHITE PEARL (WP), LIME/WHITE PEARL (LWP), CHARTREUSE/WHITE PEARL (CWP). c) Deep or clean dark water: SAME AS "b". d) Tea-stained water: GOLD (GLD) OR COPPER (COP). e) Dirty water: GOLD (GLD), COPPER (COP), GOLD/GLOW WHITE (GGW) OR ALL GLOW (BLG). f) Green, algae-tinted water: GOLD (GLD), CHARTREUSE/WHITE PEARL (CWP) OR GREEN/SILVER (KS). g) Through the ice: GOLD (GLD), ALL GLOW (BLG), SILVER (SLV), BLUE/SILVER (BS), CHARTREUSE/WHITE PEARL (CWP), GOLD/GLOW WHITE (GGW), SILVER/GLOW WHITE (SGW) OR GOLD/SILVER (GSV). h) At ice-out: GOLD (GLD), SILVER (SLV) OR WHITE PEARL (WP). i) Water with perch forage: GOLD (GLD). j) Water for trout: GOLD (GLD). k) Water for kokanee: CHARTREUSE/WHITE PEARL (CWP). l) Early morning near surface trolling, especially for salmon: ALL GLOW (BLG), LUMINOUS/WHITE PEARL (LWP). m) Wade casting: 1/6, 1/4 & 1/3 oz are excellent sizes for light tackle shoreline & boat casting for fresh & salt water species. From shoreline, straight-retrieve over snaggy bottom as soon as your cast lure hits water. The Kandlefish has a deadly swimming action, closely duplicating the action of a live bait fish. Fish the CHARTREUSE/WHITE PEARL (CWP) during day light and the ALL GLOW (BLG) after sunset. Excellent for bass, walleyes, redfish, seatrout, etc. If the bottom is snag-free, then your casting options increase to cover the entire water column. Bottom-bouncing is a very productive retrieve option when fish are not reacting to a straight retrieve. More details in the casting section of this guide.
NOTE: EVERY SERIOUS ANGLER SHOULD CARRY THESE BASIC FINISHES IN THEIR TACKLEBOX: GOLD (GLD), SILVER (SLV), SILVER/GLOW WHITE (SGW) AND WHITE PEARL (WP). GOLD (GLD), and SILVER (SLV) would be the overwhelming two choices, for the best metallic finishes, since they are so effective in so many different conditions in fresh and salt water. My personal best singular painted finish, to "fish the world", is a fluorescent/UV yellow chartreuse back with a white pearl belly (CWP).
� Tip: There are times when fish will change their color preferences, throughout the day, primarily due to the sun's direction. Never hesitate to switch colors, and change to smaller lures, when the bite dies. Oftentimes, fish will still "snack" on smaller offerings but not on a larger meal. NOTE: Two-sided finishes are very productive for constantly changing daylight weather conditions. A prime example, of a single lure being equally effective in sunny or cloudy weather is the silver/glow white finish (SGW). Sun triggers strikes off its silver side and the opposite glow white side triggers strikes when clouds replace sun.
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16) GEOGRAPHIC PRIMARY COLOR PREFERENCES (#1 designates the top choice)... ALASKA: 1) White pearl with a fluorescent green (LWP) or chartreuse back (CWP), 2) All glow (BLG), 3) White pearl (WP), Copper (COP), Cerise [C]. PACIFIC NORTHWEST: Same as Alaska. ROCKY MOUNTAIN REGION. 1) Gold (GLD), 2) Chartreuse/white pearl (CWP), 3) Silver (SLV). GREAT LAKES & CANADA. 1) White pearl with a fluorescent green (LWP) or chartreuse back (CWP), 2) Gold (GLD), 3) Silver (SLV), 4) All glow (BLG). ATLANTIC COAST: Same as Great Lakes & Canada. GULF OF MEXICO: 1) Gold (GLD), 2) Chartreuse/white pearl (CWP), 3) Silver (SLV), 4) White pearl with a fluorescent green back (LWP), 5) Copper (COP), 5) Blue silver (BS), 6) Gold/glow white (GGW), 7) Silver/glow white (SGW). TIP: To restore luster to a dull metallic finish, lightly rub WD-40 over its surface.
17) SIZES...A total of (12) sizes are presently available which range from 1/6 to 6 oz. Under normal marine and weather conditions (little or no wind), these sizes will cover depth ranges from near surface down to 300 ft.
SIZE LENGTH (inches) HOOK SIZE
1/6 oz 1 5/8 #4
1/4 oz 2.0 #2
1/3 oz 2 1/8 #2
1/2 oz 2 3/8 #2
3/4 oz 2 3/4 #1
1 oz 3 1/8 #1/0
1 � oz 3 5/8 #2/0
2 oz 4 1/4 #3/0
2 � oz 5 1/8 #4/0
3 � oz 6.0 #6/0
4 � oz 6 1/8 #7/0
6 oz 7 1/8 #8/0
18) HOOK FILES: Sharp hooks dramatically increase hook-ups! If your hook point does not stick in your fingernail (not your skin), while sliding it over its surface, it needs sharpening. The best sharpener is a fine metal file that is not rusty. Lightly run the file over any roughness from three angles. Check for sharpness throughout your day on the water to insure optimum hook sets. Dull hooks play a major role in missed strikes and lost fish.
From a more informative standpoint, a textbook can actually be written about the versatility, and effectiveness, of the Kandlefish. As with most things in life, success comes with knowledge and "practice makes perfect". Understanding the mechanics of your Kandlefish, and how it relates to its environment, will enable you to proficiently fish the world! Hopefully, this guide will help you in reaching that objective.
Our fish resources are under extreme pressure from pollution and habitat destruction. We need to do our part, as stewards, to protect this fragile resource for our children and future generations. Please keep just enough fish for a fresh meal and carefully release the rest. In many marine waters, irresponsible handling of fish remains a problem. Scientists have proven that even moderate mishandling, of many species of sportfish, leads to injury which eventually results in death. It's best to use barbless, single hooks for quick releases (crimp the barb on your K-Fish to render it barbless). Release the fish, while still in the water, with dehooking devices. Please do not handle fish, you plan to release, with dry hands, gloves, towels or knotted landing nets. For many species, this is a death sentence! One of the many positives of the Kandlefish, is that this type of lure almost never gut-hooks a fish...unlike when bait fishing.